Anise Restaurant Review: Auckland’s New Opening Serving Elevated Asian
Auckland foodies have been spoilt for choice this year with a spate of stylish new openings like Advieh, First Mates Last Laugh, Queens, and Darling on Drake. Perhaps one of the most hotly anticipated new eateries is Anise, a fine dining restaurant promising a fresh twist on Asian fusion cuisine.
At the helm of Anise is the esteemed Chef Sid Sahrawat, a maestro in the kitchen with a string of successes under his belt, including Cassia, Sidart, and the new Ponsonby eatery KOL. Situated on Symonds Street, Anise is housed inside the old French Cafe building, which has been moved next door, across the courtyard.
Walking to our table at Anise, we were caught off guard with the bland interiors. White walls, wooden accents — it almost had a clinical feel, like a doctor's waiting room. But don’t be fooled; this stark canvas serves as a backdrop for artfully plated, flavor-packed dishes. The focus here, is definitely on the food.
While the restaurant may have lacked the aesthetics of other new openings, the promise of menu items like dry aged duck breast with rendang, and master stock pork belly, helped us to maintain an air of excitement.
The drinks menu is another testament to Sahrawat's creativity, offering a glimpse into the innovative flavor pairings ahead, with cocktails like Gochujang, a mix of Korean gochujang spices, passionfruit, pisco, Lillet Blanc, and lime. But ultimately it was the wine menu that caught our attention, and we opted for a bottle of Pinot Noir.
Snack & Entrees
We started our evening at Anise with a heavy-handed selection of snacks and entrees, each dish meticulously crafted to ignite the palate. The Braised Beef Rendang Pies, with their flaky pastry crust and succulent filling, offered a delightful fusion of flavors in the perfect snack-sized mouthful. Equally impressive were the Gochujang and Black Truffle Arancini, with their balance of spice and earthy truffle notes.
For seafood enthusiasts, the Soft Shell Crab stole the show, it's crispy exterior giving way to succulent meat enrobed in a creamy green chili cashew cream, with a hint of warmth from the eggplant kasundi. This dish was a testament to Sahrawat's skill in balancing contrasting elements to create a dish that was both comforting, and sophisticated.
Mains
Anise's mains showcased Sahrawat's talent for both vegetarian offerings, and indulgent slow cooked creations. The Roasted Shiitake Mushrooms, with kombu butter, sour buttermilk, and a sticky soy glaze, exemplified Sahrawat's ability to elevate humble ingredients into showstoppers. Each bite revealed a harmonious blend of umami flavors, with the earthiness of the mushrooms complemented by the richness of the butter and sour tangy flavors of buttermilk.
The Dry Aged Duck Breast was cooked to perfection. Accompanied by a moorish red curry sauce, and topped with enoki mushroom, it was the type of dish you dine out for. For those seeking a comforting, hearty, Winter dish, the Masterstock Pork Belly, with its delicate interplay of apple, ginger, and cabbage, was another highlight of the evening.
Desserts
While I’m not usually a dessert person, the desserts at Anise were so good we ended up ordering every item on the menu. My favorite had to be the Sticky Rice, featuring puffed black rice, chewy mango, pavlova, and jasmine rice ice cream, offering a playful interplay of textures that delighted the senses. Each spoonful, sweet, chewy, and creamy, with a subtle enough finish to leave me craving more.
Ultimately it was the Banana Parfait that stole the show for the evening, its intricate blend of white chocolate, black pepper hokey pokey, and sweet licorice, captivating the palate with each bite. The licorice, usually an assertive flavor, was transformed into a delicate accent that danced on the tongue, elevating the dessert into a realm of pure indulgence.
Atmosphere
Anise manages to excel in delivering impeccable service, which helps elevates the dining experience. Recommendations are offered with enthusiasm, and each dish is presented with care and attention to detail. While the food at Anise is exceptional, the ambiance falls short of expectations. Despite the energy from the kitchen, and a great playlist, the lacklustre interiors fail to fully capture the magic of the menu.
Final Thoughts
Anise emerges as one of the best new restaurants in Auckland's dining scene. Chef Sid's Sahrawat ability to layer tastes, balance textures, and surprise diners is nothing short of artistry. While the ambiance may lack flair, the exceptional food and service compensate. When you dine at Anise, you're embarking on a culinary journey guided by a true master of flavor, each menu item carefully composed, to create unparalleled dishes that demand to be experienced firsthand to be fully appreciated.
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